The Greatest Of All Time*
Food is like an exploration of new lands. Every spice, herb, and technique unravels a piece of history. It tells a story of how and what people eat, and why they make it. Cooking a dish is not unlike discovering a secret. With recipes passed down from generation to generation, words spoken by grandmothers and mothers to their daughters and sons. It’s not strange that food is considered an intrinsic part of one’s culture. For when we come together at the table, it’s a tapestry of memories old and new.
And birria is no exception. The word in itself carries a heavy past of colonialism and ancient traditions. Colloquially known as “worthless” or “grotesque”, birria was indigenous food the Spanish turned up their noses at. And many of them were made with undesirable goat meat marinated in pre-hispanic styles and cooked in underground pits or rock ovens. Slowly but surely, the birria transformed from a humble dish in Mexico to a celebrated meal in cities all across the world.
This is just but a summary of what I’ve devoured in my many readings of birria. You see, I often read cookbooks as others do with fiction. Every ingredient was a character with a part to play, and each instruction a pivoting storyline. Paired with vivid photography and the author’s own words, I would imagine the entire cooking process in my head. Down to how the marble on the countertop would look like, the blade chopping against the wooden board would sound, the coarseness of salt between one’s fingers would feel, the refreshing zest of citrus would smell, and of course, how each bite would taste.
“Birria – seasoned and baked meat,” Diana Kennedy wrote in The Essential Cuisines of Mexico. “This is a very rustic dish; usually a whole goat or lamb, although in some places just the offal, is seasoned with a paste of dried chiles and spices and cooked in a pit barbecue.”
I envisioned a great slab of meat slathered in a thick marinade, roasting over charcoal buried in the ground. It sounded awfully delicious. She listed a variety of chiles: ancho, guajillo, and cascabel – each actor differing from the other in texture, colour, and flavour. She then instructed the reader to serve the meat topped with simmering sauce in a deep bowl, alongside tortillas, onions, and oregano. That was the moment mere words spurred me into action.
However, no amount of reading can actually tell you what birria should actually look and taste like. I simply had no point of reference as a non-Mexican person who has never stepped into Mexico. I did not have a food memory to rely on nor an abuela to answer my endless questions. All I had were a Netflix show about tacos, Instagram photos showing off cheese pulls and flaming red consommé, YouTube videos of chef-bros doing their own takes, and articles on the web.
But sometimes you just had to take the plunge. So, when chance came, I invited one of my sisters to join me on my quest in recreating the recipe, albeit with a few twists. There were only a couple of things we insisted upon: it would be with goat and it wouldn’t be a quesabirria.
In our birria journey, we learnt a couple of lessons. Whilst ageing the broth overnight brought out a striking crimson shade, it also tamed the heat of the chiles. We actually preferred the punchiness the stock had right out of the oven. Also, most recipes called for a cooking time of about 3½ to 4 hours at 180°C to 200°C. We decided to go low and slow at about 150°C for about 5½ to 6 hours. With half of the meat roasting and the other half simmering away in the broth, the end result was a mixture of textures that melts in one’s mouth.
Although my introduction to birria was somewhat of a success, the journey doesn’t end there. Perhaps one day, we would be able to make it in a clay pot secured with fresh masa and then, cooked in a rock oven heated by firewood. One can only dream. B
*You don’t have to be extremely online person to know this means G.O.A.T. While I think the birria is pretty magnificent, is it The Goat of all tacos? Well, it just means I have to make all the other tacos to find out.
Tacos de Birria de Chivo estilo Jalisco (Goat Birria Tacos, Jalisco-Style)
Most claim that birria originated from Jalisco due to its large population of wild goat. Point to note: it’s not about making an authentic birria. Well, it can never be but it is our take on the dish. Purists might scoff at this recipe but there is no right way of doing birria. As with all cultures, food change with time and circumstance. While certain traditions do hold, every different birria is the same.
Serves 6 to 8
Takes 2 whole f-ing days
Notes
On meat cuts: When it comes to slow braises, it’s ideal to choose tougher cuts like the shoulder or neck. But this recipe calls for leg and rack (also known as ribs) for added fat, as goat can be a very lean meat. You can also use the shoulder in place of the leg. Getting the meat with the bones attached imparts greater flavour in the broth. If you don’t fancy the gaminess of goat, you can substitute with lamb or beef.
On chiles: Freshly dried chiles are plump, pliable, and deep in colour. Brittle ones tend to be old and lack the punch of flavour you’re looking for.
On spices: Whole spices tend to stay fresher than already ground ones and the flavour profile stronger. But you can also use ground spices for this recipe. Ceylon cinnamon, usually referred to true cinnamon, has delicate floral notes that work brilliantly in this dish.
On Mexican oregano: This citrusy herb is a key ingredient in Mexican cuisine – you’ll find it in salsas, moles, and adobos. It is, however, very much unlike the Greek oregano. To substitute, you can use marjoram instead.
On Mexican chocolate: Made from coarsely ground cocoa, sugar, and cinnamon, Mexican chocolate is grainier and usually comes in the shape of a disc. You can substitute it with good dark chocolate or omit altogether.
On pineapple vinegar: A common pantry staple in a Mexican kitchen. You can make your own with the recipe below or just substitute it with white vinegar.
On maguey leaves: If you have drunk tequila or mezcal, then it’s time to meet its source. The maguey is a member of the agave family, and is an inherent part of making birria the traditional way. Some recipes call for pulque, which is an alcoholic drink made from the sap of the leaves. Called hojas or pencas de maguey, the leaves are usually used to flavour and tenderise meat. Banana leaves can also be used, or just omit from the recipe.
Ingredients
For the adobo
10 dried guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
2 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
2 dried pasilla chiles, stemmed and seeded
2 dried morita chiles, stemmed
3 tbsp vegetable oil
100ml pineapple vinegar
20g unrefined Mexican chocolate 75%, grated
1 large white onion, chopped
1 inch ginger, peeled and sliced
6 garlic cloves, sliced
1¼ tsp fresh thyme leaves
1 tsp dried Mexican oregano
½ tsp dried marjoram
5 whole cloves
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 ceylon cinnamon stick
½ tsp cumin seeds
Kosher salt to taste
For the meat
About 2.2 - 2.5kg leg and rack of goat, bone-in
500ml chicken stock
400g roma tomatoes
2 tsp tomato paste
1 tbsp vegetable oil
3 bay leaves
5 - 6 maguey leaves, if using
To serve
Toasted corn tortillas
White onions, chopped and soaked in an ice bath for 30 minutes
Fresh coriander leaves, chopped
Lime wedges
Chipotle and Chile de Árbol Salsa
Equipment
At least 31cm cast iron dutch oven
Spice grinder
High-powered blender
Large glass marinating container
Directions
Day One
Make the adobo
Clean the stemmed and seeded chiles with damp paper towels. In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, sauté the chiles with 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil for about 3 minutes, or until pliable and puffy. Remove from heat immediately. They will turn bitter if overcooked. Alternatively, toast them in a 175°C oven for about 6 minutes, or until puffed up and very pliable.
In a saucepan over high heat, combine all the toasted chiles in enough water to cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and continue to simmer for another 10 minutes, or until the chiles are soft.
Like the chiles, toast the peppercorns, cumin seeds, and cloves in a frying pan until fragrant. Use a mortar and pestle (or a molcajete) or a spice grinder to ground them into fine powder.
Next, add a tablespoon of vegetable oil to a frying pan over medium heat. Sauté the chopped onions for about two minutes, before adding the garlic. Continue cooking for another two minutes until the onions are translucent but not brown. You can also char them whole (the garlic still in its skin) on a non-reactive frying pan or comal.
Transfer the softened chiles, freshly ground spices, pineapple vinegar, the cooked onions and garlic, grated chocolate, thyme, marjoram, and oregano in a blender. Add about 220ml of the cooking water, alongside salt to taste, and then blend the mixture until completely smooth. Let it cool completely.
Once cooled, rub each cut of seasoned goat meat with the marinade – really massage the vibrant sauce into every single crevice. Place the meat and remaining marinade in the marinating container and cover with its lid. Refrigerate overnight or up to 2 days.
Day Two
Cook the Birria
If you are using maguey leaves in this recipe, you will need to prep them before using. Remember to use gloves when handling raw leaves as its sap is an irritant. Using a sharp knife, trim the thorny spines along the sides of each leaf. Lay them over a grill until they are pliable enough to bend and line the dutch oven or pot, about 10 to 15 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 200°C.
Toss the tomatoes with oil and roast them on a rimmed baking sheet for about 45 minutes. Leave them aside to cool. Or you can char them in a non-reactive frying pan or a comal over medium heat, until the skin blackens.
Turn the temperature down to 150°C.
Transfer the marinated goat into the lined dutch oven or pot. Start with the leg at the bottom and then the ribs. Pour in the rest of the marinade, chicken stock, and bay leaves. The liquid should reach halfway of the dutch oven or pot. If using maguey leaves, fold the ends of the leave over to completely cover and wrap the meat. Then, cover the pot tightly with its lid. Secure the life with aluminium foil to prevent steam from escaping.
Braise in the oven for about 4½ to 5 hours, or until the meat is tender enough to pull apart. Or as Gimli would say, ripe meat off the bone.
Remove the cooked meat from the consommé and remove all the bones. Shred the meat to a pulled pork consistency.
Add the roasted tomatoes and tomato paste to the broth and let it come to a boil. Reduce the heat and let it simmer for another 20 minutes. If you have an immersion blender, purée the consommé until smooth.
Lightly toast some corn tortillas and add the shredded goat meat. Serve them with a steaming hot bowl of consommé, finely chopped onions, fresh coriander, lime wedges, and salsa.
Vinagre de Piña (Pineapple Vinegar)
Adapted from Tu Casa Mi Casa: Mexican Recipes fro the Home Cook by Enrique Olvera
Takes 15 minutes
Notes
On piloncillo: Commonly used in Mexican cooking, the dark cone is a raw form of whole cane sugar. Minimally processed, it has notes of smokiness, caramel, and rum. You can substitute it with about 120g of dark brown sugar.
Ingredients
1 pineapple, rind only
1 piloncillo cone, grated
1 litre water
Directions
Clean the pineapple rinds under running water. Place them in a large glass vessel and add the shaved piloncillo.
Add the water and cover the opening with a cheesecloth, securing it with cooking twine. Keep the vessel in a dark place and allow it to ferment at room temperature for about 3 to 5 weeks. Foam will appear on the top (this is the mother) and the liquid cloudy in 2 to 4 days. It will clear up and the solids will settle later.
Strain the liquid into clean bottles and store in a cool, dark place.
Salsa de Chipotle y Chile de Árbol
Adapted from Mi Cocina by Rick Martinez
Makes 475ml
Takes 15 minutes
Notes
On chiles: Freshly dried chiles are plump, pliable, and deep in colour. Brittle ones tend to be old and lack the punch of flavour you’re looking for.
Ingredients
453g roma tomatoes, about 4 cored and chopped
98g white onion, chopped
1 large garlic clove
3 dried chipotle chiles, stemmed and seeded
3 dried árbol chiles, stemmed
120ml water
1 fresh lime, juice only
Kosher salt to taste
Directions
In a heavy-duty saucepan, add the tomatoes, chiles, onion, garlic and water. Bring it to a boil over medium-high heat and reduce to a simmer. Allow to cook until the chiles and tomatoes are soft, about 15 minutes.
Remove from heat and set aside for 10 minutes to cool. Transfer to a blender and purée until smooth. Add the lime juice and season with salt.