The Return of the Christmas Cookies
Our move to Germany was a hectic one. Arriving two days just before the first Advent Sunday, we were occupied with unpacking our luggage than with baking the first batch of Christmas cookies. I saw my new home through rose-tinted glasses.
We spot fawns frolicking in the icy fields, magpies flitting from naked branch to branch, and squirrels making one last trip for the hazelnuts in the garden. We marvelled at the wonders of the winter landscape. Soft, golden rays casting long shadows against the stark-white birch trees.
Well, I did always find winter the most romantic and magical of all seasons. The crackle of firewood in the hearth. The stillness in the morning after a night of freshly fallen snow. The soft glow of candlelight in the darkest of days. Reading a thriller whilst buried under thick cashmere blankets. The smell of pine from the starlit Christmas tree. The markets sparkling with fairy lights and roaring with cheer. Sipping mugs of spiked hot chocolate or Glühwein and wolfing down bags of Schmalzkuchen.
But perhaps, the best of all is the intoxicating aroma of spices wafting from the kitchen. The spritz of freshness from a clementine mingled with the warmth of ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, aniseed, and nutmeg. Saucepans bubbling with honey and marmalade. Ovens filled with toasty chestnuts, hazelnuts, and almonds. Tray after tray of cookies and biscuits, ready to be glazed with rich dark chocolate, laced with paper-white meringues, or coated with jewelled jams. The constant baking is a source of comfort for the frostiest of afternoons.
However, it was only when we lit up the third candle on the Advent wreath that I began baking (and was still unpacking). Most German households would have probably had their fill of Christmas cookies by then. The kitchen was littered with scraps of dough, scattered flour, biscuit moulds, and cookie cutters. There was a slight frenzy in the air, soothed by Christmas carols and a lot of coffee. Making six different types of cookies (and a cake) in a week was probably the most impossible task I gave myself.
The traditional honeyed Lebkuchen bears a slight resemblance to crunchy gingerbread cookies most of us know. They are, however, darker, denser, and deeper in flavour. Leavened with Pottasche, or potash, this treacly treat requires time and patience to fully develop. Some families even keep the dough in their basements for up to three months. I left mine to rest for about two days and the result was a heavily tanned dough ready to be cut into angels, bells, snowmen, and Rudolph.
Another cookie that uses an unfamiliar raising agent is the Pfeffernuss. The little domes are aided by Hirschhornsalz, or Salt of Hartshorn, which was traditionally used since the 17th century. Dissolved in some rum, it helps retain the cookies’ hemispherical shape and airy texture. These ‘pepper nuts’ have become my favourite Christmas cookie to eat. Draped under a veil of lemon icing and a few more turns of the pepper grinder, it’s a fiery burst of flavour with every pop.
I must confess that the Zimtsterne are not my favourite cookies to bake. The smooth, snow-white meringue icing on the stars is almost impossible to achieve. Some recipes call for a slow, low bake, while others lean towards leaving the unbaked meringues in a cool place to dry overnight. Part of me feels slight disappointment when my stars turn out dimpled and lightly browned at the tips; they look like sad clowns when placed beside the store-bought ones. And yet, they always seem to disappear from the cookie plate first.
Intricately moulded into festive motifs or religious figures, the Spekulatius are more popularly known in their Dutch or Belgian moniker across the world. While kids in the Netherlands and Belgium would fill their stockings with these ornate spiced biscuits for Saint Nikolaus on the 6th of December, the little pieces of art are more of a delicious treat for the Germans during Advent. I was lucky that we had the traditional wooden moulds. It only meant I could try my hand at it with just one tweak – a sandwich cookie filled with… Spekulatius cream. I did not attempt to make my own spread when Lotus already has a scrumptious one available.
Linzer cookies might have crossed the border from Austria, but they have wholeheartedly been embraced by their German cousins. They are simply a joy to look at and to eat. The powdered icing on the top is almost like a windowsill laden with snow, offering a cheeky little peek into decorated rooms in a quaint house. Although usually filled with redcurrant jam, I do find the task of making jams that conjure the flavours of Christmas very appealing. It also just means breakfasts in the next few months will be quite delicious.
Last but not least, one cannot celebrate Christmas in Germany without the Vanillekipferl. Perfumed with vanilla and almond, the buttery, almost fragile cookies are shaped into tiny crescents and dunked into a bowl of powdered sugar. Another borrowed recipe from Austria, the horn-like pieces only taste best when actual vanilla pods are used. These glossy, dark sticks are a luxury to have but there are always a couple in the pantry for when we have vanilla-forward bakes. I personally love the Tahitian variety; they are intensely fruity with a hint of cherry, chocolate, and liquorice. But the Madagascan (or Bourbon) ones do the job just as well.
Six cookies. A delicious Christmas. And just before the New Year came, I already wrote a list of cookies to attempt the next year. Well, I have about eleven months to prepare. B
German Christmas Cookies
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A German Christmas classic. Although they originate from Austria, they are well loved throughout Germany. It’s also possibly one of the few cookies J’s family requested for each year.
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One cannot celebrate a German Christmas and not have the iconic Zimtstern on the cookie plate. Bursting with cinnamon, the star-shaped almond cookies are coated with a wisp of snow-white meringue.
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Infused with warming spices such as white pepper, nutmeg, and coriander, these little spiced domes are explosions in flavour. The delectable ‘pepper nuts’ are so addictive, they even come with a warning from the Brothers Grimm.
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Baking Lebkuchen is like stepping back into history. This honey-sweetened Christmas treat requires only time and patience to slowly mellow and develop.
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Moulded into intricate patterns, these thin, crisp golden slabs are turned into sandwich cookies filled with biscoff spread. Sacrilegious but still so delicious.
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Almost like a painted glass window of a majestic cathedral, Linzer cookies are a sight to behold. Stained with vibrant hues of homemade jams, these little pops of colour are sometimes too beautiful to devour.
Vanillekipferl
Makes 80 cookies
Takes 45 minutes
Notes
On almonds: Christmas, for me, is synonymous with the peeling of almond skins. A tedious job, but you will be rewarded with so much more flavour in your cookies. If time is an issue, you may purchase pre-grounded almonds.
On vanilla: Vanilla pods are awfully expensive. If you cannot get your hands on them, replace a bean with a tablespoon of vanilla paste. You will not need to add vanilla paste to the coating, however.
Ingredients
100g ground almonds
275g cake flour (T45 / Type 405)
45g powdered sugar
1 tsp kosher salt
1 vanilla pod
200g unsalted butter, cold and cubed
2 egg yolks
For the coating
150g powdered sugar
½ vanilla pod
Directions
In a large mixing bowl, sift the flour and powdered sugar.
Use a sharp paring knife to split the vanilla pod open and scrape the seeds with the back of the blade. Then, add the ground almond, salt, and vanilla seeds, and whisk together until fully incorporated.
Take the leftover vanilla pod and stick it into a bowl of powdered sugar for the coating. Add the seeds of half a vanilla pod to the sugar and mix until fully combined. Leave it aside for later.
Cut the cold butter into ½-inch cubes and toss with the flour mixture. Use your fingers or a pastry cutter to break the butter into smaller pieces. It should resemble breadcrumbs.
Stir in the egg yolks and knead until the dough comes together in a ball. Divide it into four equal portions and roll each into identical logs, about 1-inch thick. Wrap them individually in clingfilm and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
Preheat the oven at 180°C (160°C fan). Line two baking sheets with baking paper or silicone baking mats.
Cut each log into 2 cm slices and roll them into little sausages, about 6 cm long, with tapered edges. Then, form each piece into crescent shape.
Position the baking sheets in the middle and bake for about 12 minutes until light brown.
Allow the little crescents to cool on a wire rack for a minute before rolling them in the vanilla-sugar. Once completely cool, store them in an airtight container.
Zimtsterne
Makes 40 cookies
Takes 30 minutes
Notes
On almonds: Ready-ground almond flour can be used if you want to make this a breezy bake. But I do recommend peeling and grinding the almonds yourself for a deeper flavour.
On meringue: Make sure the bowls and whisk is perfectly clean before placing the egg whites and sugar in. The key to meringues is to start slow and to add the powdered sugar a tablespoon at a time. Never take your stand mixer to the maximum speed and keep your eyes on it!
On texture: I’ve made Zimtsterne in a tropical climate before and the little stars turn a little soggy after left out on a plate for a few hours. So, don’t fret if this happens to you. Sometimes, we just have to make do with what we have.
Ingredients
3 egg whites
100g powdered sugar
1 tbsp vanilla paste
400g ground almonds
2 tsp ground cinnamon
Directions
Using a stand mixer with a whisk attachment, start beating the egg whites on low. The moment it starts frothing, turn the speed to medium and gradually add the powdered sugar one tablespoon at a time. Once all the powdered sugar are added, drop the vanilla paste in. The meringue should be glossy, smooth, and stiff.
In a large mixing bowl, fold two-thirds of the meringue into 320g of the ground almonds and cinnamon with a rubber spatula. You should get quite a sticky dough. Cover the dough with clingfilm and let it rest in a cool place for about 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven at 150°C (130°C fan). Line two baking sheets with baking paper or silicone baking mats.
Sprinkle the work surface with the remaining ground almonds and use a rolling pin to roll out the dough to about 7mm thick.
Dip the cookie cutter in cold water and use it to cut out stars out of the dough. Carefully place the star onto the baking sheet and continue with the rest of the dough.
Using the tip of a teaspoon, spread the remaining meringue as thinly and evenly on each star all to the pointed ends.
Once all the stars are completed, bake them on the lower rack for about 25 minutes. Transfer the cookies on a wire rack to cool completely before storing them in an airtight container. They can keep well for a month.
Pfeffernüsse
Makes 100 cookies
Takes 30 minutes
Notes
On Hirschhornsalz: Also known as baker’s ammonia or ammonium carbonate, it’s traditionally used as a raising agent in Germany and Scandinavia. It gives off a very strong (disgusting) smell when reacting with heat. Don’t worry about it though, the gases will evaporate when the cookies are cooled. You can substitute it with baking powder, but that won’t achieve the airy, crisp texture and domed shape of the Pfeffernüsse.
On honey: High-quality honey makes a lot of difference when it comes to taste and fragrance. Try to buy raw, untreated local honey so you know you’re getting the real deal.
Ingredients
250g honey
75g caster sugar
1 whole egg
7.5g Hirschhornsalz
1 tbsp dark rum
½ tsp freshly ground white pepper
½ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp ground clove
¼ tsp freshly ground nutmeg
¼ tsp ground ginger
¼ tsp ground allspice
¼ tsp ground cardamom
⅛ tsp ground coriander
500g cake flour (T45 / Type 405)
For the glaze
100g powdered sugar
2 tbsp still water
2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
Directions
Preheat the oven at 180°C. Line two baking sheets with baking paper or silicone baking mats.
Mix the Hirschhornsalz in the rum and stir with a spoon to dissolve the powder.
In a large saucepan, warm the honey and sugar over medium-low heat until the crystals are completely gone. The honey should not reach boiling point. Then, transfer it to a large mixing bowl.
Add the rum mixture into the warm honey, followed by the eggs and spices. Stir with a rubber spatula until fully incorporated.
Sift the flour and salt into the mixture and then, use your hands to knead everything together. You will get a very sticky dough.
Using your hands, shape the cookie dough into 2cm balls and lay them on the prepared baking sheet 3cm apart.
Bake the pepper nuts for about 10 to 15 minutes or until slightly golden but not browned.
Make the glaze while the biscuits are baking. Simply mix the powdered sugar, water, and lemon juice together in a bowl to get a smooth paste.
Once the biscuits are out of the oven, let them sit on the baking sheets for about 2 minutes before transferring them to a wire rack.
Pour the glaze over the biscuits while still warm. Sprinkle some freshly ground white pepper while the icing is still wet. Let them completely cool for about an hour before storing them in an airtight container. They can keep for a month.
Honiglebkuchen
Makes 50 cookies
Takes 30 minutes
Notes
On Pottasche: Also known as potash or potasssium carbonate. It reacts with liquid to produce carbon dioxide, which lifts the baked goods. You can replace every tablespoon of pottasche with half a tablespoon of baking soda.
On spices: You can get premixed Lebkuchengewürz in the market but nothing beats making your own concoction. And yes, the freshness in spice does determine the flavour profile. If you can, get whole spices from a sustainable source, toast them lightly in a saucepan, and then grind them in a spice grinder.
On ageing: If you do not have a basement that keeps a relatively low temperature, the refrigerator would be your only choice. But I wouldn’t recommend it as the dough might dry out too much, but we make do with what we have.
Ingredients
250g honey
60g dark brown sugar
80g unsalted butter
500g cake flour (T45 / Type 405)
1 tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder
1 whole egg
1 tbsp pottasche
2 tbsp still water
For the Lebkuchengewürz
½ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp ground clove
¼ tsp ground allspice
¼ tsp ground ginger
¼ tsp ground cardamom
⅛ tsp ground aniseed
⅛ tsp ground mace
For the royal icing
113g powdered sugar
1 egg white
For the dark chocolate ganache
56g Valrhona 70% chocolate
60ml heavy cream
1 tbsp caster sugar
1 tbsp still water
¼ tsp kosher salt
For the blond chocolate ganache
38g Valrhona Dulcey chocolate
22ml heavy cream
¼ tsp kosher salt
Directions
Dissolve the pottasche in water in a small glass or bowl, stirring with a teaspoon. Leave it aside.
In a medium-sized saucepan, warm the honey and brown sugar over medium-low heat until the crystals are completely gone. The honey should not reach boiling point. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and let it cool slightly before adding the butter.
In another large mixing bowl, sift the flour with the spices and cocoa powder. Whisk until fully incorporated.
Stir the dry mixture into the wet batter with a rubber spatula. Crack the egg in and continue mixing. Last but not least, add the pottasche-water and knead until you get a dense, tacky dough.
Wrap the dough with clingfilm, followed by a layer of aluminium foil, and let it rest in a cool, dark place for at least 24 hours. Or maybe even 3 months.
When it’s time to bake them, preheat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan). Line two baking sheets with baking paper or silicone baking mats.
Lightly flour your work surface and roll out the dough to about 8mm thick. Cut various Christmas-themed shapes with cookie cutters and place them on the prepared baking sheet 3cm apart to allow for spreading. Continue with the rest of the dough.
Bake the Lebkuchen biscuits for about 10 minutes or until golden brown. Transfer them over to a wire rack to cool completely.
To make the royal icing, start beating the egg white using an electric hand mixer with a whisk attachment on medium speed. Gradually add the powdered sugar into the egg whites while continuously beating. Mix until the icing holds a ribbonlike trail on the surface of the mixture for at least 5 seconds. You may also create coloured icing - simply divide the paste into smaller bowls and mix in your preferred natural food colouring.
Spekulatius
Makes 50 cookies
Takes an hour
Notes
On bitter almond extract: You can substitute it with pure almond extract.
On the moulds: Wooden Spekulatius moulds can be pretty pricey, depending on the quality and how intricate the designs are. If you don’t have any in your possession, simply cut the dough in rectangular or diamond pieces. And if you really want to keep to tradition, lay the dough over silvered almonds so that you’ll have a crunchy bottom.
Ingredients
450g cake flour (T45 / Type 405)
180g caster sugar
50g ground almond
1 tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp freshly ground nutmeg
¼ tsp ground clove
¼ tsp ground cardamom
⅛ tsp ground mace
½ tsp kosher salt
80g unsalted butter, cold and cubed
1 whole egg
5 drops bitter almond extract
100ml whole milk
Lotus biscoff cream
Directions
In a large mixing bowl, combine and whisk flour, ground almond, sugar, spices, and salt together until fully incorporated.
Add the butter into the dry mixture and use your fingers to break it apart. It should have the consistency of breadcrumbs.
Add the egg, bitter almond extract, and milk, and use your hands to knead the dough together until smooth and pliable.
Cover the dough with clingfilm and chill in a refrigerator for at least an hour.
Preheat the oven to 180°C (160°C fan). Line two baking sheets with baking paper or silicone baking mats.
Lightly flour the work surface and roll the dough out to about 3mm thick. If you do not have Spekulatius moulds, you can cut the dough out into rectangles of about 4cm to 6cm with a sharp knife.
If you are in possession of those lovely moulds, flour the wooden blocks before pressing it firmly into the dough. Use a sharp knife to trim the dough and then, knock the cut dough out of the mould and place it on the prepared baking sheet. Leave about 1cm between the biscuits.
Continue with the rest of the batter and then, bake the biscuits for about 10 minutes, or until golden brown.
Transfer the baked biscuits onto the wire rack to cool completely. Using a butter knife, spread the biscoff cream onto one biscuit and sandwich with another. Repeat until you sandwich all the biscuits.
The best way to store them is in a cardboard box with a few holes for ventilation.
Linzer Kekse (Linzer Cookies)
Makes 25 cookies
Takes 45 minutes
Notes
On hazelnuts: J’s mother makes a Linzertorte with almonds each Christmas. So, I like having a different type of nut on the table. You can definitely use other nuts such as walnuts and almonds. To save yourself the hassle of peeling the skins off, get pre-peeled but unroasted hazelnuts or simply, ground hazelnut flour.
On jams: You can definitely use store-bought jams can be used but they tend to be overly filled with sugar. Try to find jars that are at least 70% fruit in ratio to sugar or support your local jam maker.
On humidity: The moisture level in the air does play a part in how your bakes turn out. If you live in a humid environment, chances are the jam-laden cookies will get a little soggy after a while. To combat this, only spread the jam when you are about to serve it.
Ingredients
180g cake flour (T45 / Type 405)
213g ground hazelnuts
45g caster sugar
113g unsalted butter
1 whole egg
¼ tsp kosher salt
1 tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp ground cloves
2 tsp still water
For the filling
Clementine marmalade
Glühwein jelly
Powdered sugar
Directions
In a large mixing bowl, whisk flour, ground hazelnuts, spices, and salt together until fully incorporated. Using a fork, beat the egg and water in a small bowl.
Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy for about 3 minutes, scraping the sides of the bowl as needed.
Add the egg into the mixture and continue beating fully combined. Reduce the speed to low and add the dry ingredients spoon by spoon. Once the batter comes together, stop working the dough. If any crumbs remain at the bottom of the bowl, use your hands or a rubber spatula to bring them altogether.
Divide the dough into two equal portions. Place one in between two sheets of clingfilm and roll the dough out to about 4mm thick. Do the same for the other dough. Lay the covered dough onto a baking sheet or a chopping board and chill them in the freezer for about 45 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 180°C (160° fan). Line two baking sheets with baking paper or silicone baking mats.
Take the dough out of the freezer and remove the clingfilm. Use the cookie cutter to cut out the traditional Linzer petal shapes and transfer them to the prepared baking sheets at about 4cm apart. To make the peekaboo cutouts, use smaller cookie cutters in the centre of half of the cookies.
Take the scraps and combine with the rest of the dough. Roll it out between clingfilm and refreeze. Continue the process until all the dough are used.
Bake for 11 to 13 minutes, or until golden brown. Transfer the biscuits to a wire rack to cool completely.
To assemble the Linzer cookies, sift powdered sugar over the ones with the cutouts. Spread a little marmalade on the uncut ones and then top with the iced peekaboo cookies.
They keep in an airtight container for about 2 weeks.