Searching For A Husband (And Flour)
Point to note: the author does, in fact, have a husband. And has no intention whatsoever to look for another. The “husband” at hand is the maritozzi, a brioche-like pastry enriched with olive oil and honey, cradling clouds of fresh cream. Some say back in the days, suitors would hide a ring or precious trinket within as a marriage proposal, and others tell of women baking this treat to woo a marito – a husband.
Another point to make, I’ve actually never been to Rome nor has the pastry ever passed my mouth. But I have made brioches before, although not with olive oil. And certainly not with a leaven. I had to rely on books and the good old Internet. Many Italian recipes call for Manitoba flour, while others simply state ‘farina 330W’. It’s easy to mistake that as a flour type, not unlike the German Type 450, French T45, and Austrian W480.
Well, I was wrong. The value of W actually indicates the strength of flour. The higher the value of W, the greater the protein network – or rather gluten – will be. In the case of Manitoba flour, it has the flour strength of 300W to 400W and a high protein level of up to 15%. That explains why it’s mainly used for stodgy bakes like the panettone and pandoro. However, I’m not looking for a dense crumb structure for my maritozzi.
I wanted something that fell in between bread and cake. It should have a light, feathery crumb and a paper-thin crust – think of it as a husband with a strong physique but a tender personality. That means, the flour should have the value of about 80 to 200W in flour strength, a lower protein level, and a finer grind.
This is where the dilemma comes in. Flour varies tremendously across manufacturers and countries. All-purpose flour in the US does not translate equally to flours in Europe. If we take most websites and blogs as a point of reference, I can just replace all-purpose with Type 550 in Germany. But that would be wrong.
Unlike the United Kingdom and USA, most flour in Europe are classified by their ash¹ content, which is also an indication of minerals present after the milling process. A higher value of ash means the flour contains a greater quantity of bran², and this impacts water absorption, nutrition, fermentation activity, gluten formation, and flour colour.
To compare two types of flours in Germany, a Type 450 contains about 0% to 0.5% of ash and it’s usually used for biscuits and cakes. The darker Type 1050 has about 0.91% to 1.2% of bran left in the flour, which makes it ideal for wholegrain breads. And generally, as the ash content rises, so does the extraction rate or the degree of grinding. Flour with an extraction rate of 100% will contain all of the germ, bran, and endosperm of the wheat grain.
And if we take the table³ above into consideration, it’s pretty plain to see that Germany, France, and Italy have varying degrees for their version of “all-purpose” flour. Flours in the US are grouped within a wider range of protein levels. For example, King Arthur’s all-purpose has a protein content of about 11.7% and White Lily has approximately 9%, which is almost equivalent to most pastry and cake flours. But is it really that important to know this?
Flour is the domain of bread makers. After all, bread is mainly flour, water, and sometimes, yeast. As with every ingredient (think chocolate, wine, and cheese), where it came from and how it is processed makes a huge impact on the final product. A loaf made from freshly stone-milled grains will have a different taste profile from a bag sitting in the supermarket. That being said, not everyone will be moving to a farm to harvest their very own heritage wheat. But understanding the difference can at least make us better bakers. It gives you more control over how your bakes will turn out and how much nutrition you are actually getting.
Brioches and enriched doughs might not be considered as “real bread” by the sourdough bros, but achieving the right crumb consistency is down to the type of flour used and amount of fat added. In the case of the maritozzi, using a mix of “all purpose” and “cake” flours can help boost the gluten strength without affecting its tender, airy texture. Then, it’s all about making sure the dough has reached its optimum gluten level after adding the fat and that it has enough time to rest.
As the ‘husbands’ sat by the windowsill to slowly rise, my actual husband asked why the buns are not in the oven yet.
“They need to proof,” I replied plainly.
“What do they need to prove? Aren’t their existence enough for you?!” He asked in mock horror.
Well, maybe these treats are actually a proof of love. B
¹ Ash specified here is not the same as the stuff you get when you cremate your dear pet. You can get geeky about it here.
² Present in wheat, the bran is the outer layer of the grain and is rich in fibre, vitamins, proteins, and minerals.
³ These numbers are taken off several governmental sources from Italy, France, and Germany.
Maritozzi Buns
Crisp on the outside and delicate within, these maritozzi buns delivers a tinge of olive oil and citrus alongside lashes of mascarpone cream and spoonfuls of greengages, the queen of plums.
Adapted from Nicola Lamb and Letitia Clark of La Vita È Dolce
Makes 8 buns
Takes about 6 hours
Notes
On yeast: It’s important to remember that yeast is a living thing. So, if you have a pack of dry yeast at the back of your kitchen cupboard, it might not be able to work its magic. I’ve used fresh yeast for this recipe. You can substitute with 5g of active dry yeast.
On the leaven: Also known as a preferment, it gives the dough a head start as the yeast has already started its work. It is not necessary to start with a leaven, but it deepens the flavour and accelerates gluten development. Plus, your buns stay unspoilt for longer.
On the windowpane test: To check on gluten development, just take a piece of the dough and stretch it. A fully-kneaded dough can be stretched into a thin, translucent membrane that doesn’t tear easily.
On greengages: Choose smaller, plump fruit that aren’t too soft. You can substitute it with other plum varieties such as Mirabelle or Victoria or any other fruit of your liking.
Ingredients
For the leaven
30g plain flour (Type 550 / T55)
75g whole milk
8g fresh yeast
5g caster sugar
½ tbsp honey
For the final dough
200g plain flour (Type 550 / T55)
50g pastry flour (Type 450 / T45)
5g kosher salt
25g caster sugar
1 orange, zest only
1 lemon, zest only
50ml whole milk, about 24°C
1 whole egg
1 egg yolk
35ml olive oil
20ml honey (optional)
For the egg wash
1 whole egg
1 tsp whole milk
For the Reine Claude compote
700g greengages
40g caster sugar
1 tbsp lemon juice
For the whipped mascarpone cream
220g cream (35% fat)
20g caster sugar
225g mascarpone
Directions
Make the leaven
In a small saucepan, warm the milk until body temperature, about 24°C. Transfer it to a small bowl and add the yeast, honey, and flour. Whisk until you get a smooth paste.
Cover the bowl with clingfilm or a clean kitchen towel and set it aside in a warm place for about 30 minutes. If it’s bubbling, it means the yeast is working.
Make the final dough
In a large mixing bowl, add the zest of the orange and lemon to the sugar. Using your fingers, rub the zest into the sugar until fragrant. Let it sit for about 20 minutes. Then, whisk in the egg, egg yolk, and warm milk.
Add the leaven into the egg mixture, and then the flour and salt. Using a stand mixer with a hook attachment, mix on medium-high speed for about 8 to 10 minutes or until medium gluten development is reached (see notes).
At this point, turn the mixer down to low and slowly drizzle the olive oil while it runs. Let it continue until you achieve full gluten development (see notes).
Lightly oil another large bowl and transfer the dough. Cover with clingfilm or a kitchen towel and let it proof in a warm place for about 1½ to 2 hours, until the dough has doubled in size.
Roast the greengages
Preheat the oven to 170°C.
Cut the greengages into half (or quarter the larger ones) and deseed them. Toss with sugar and lemon juice.
Transfer into a lined roasting dish and roast for 12 to 15 mins. Take about 10 halved pieces for decoration and set aside to cool.
Pour the syrup over the decorative pieces and set the remaining fruit aside to cool.
Shape the buns
Line two baking sheets with baking paper.
Knock the air out of the dough with a punch (or two). Then, scrape it out of the bowl and divide into eight pieces, each weighing about 60g. Round each piece into a smooth ball with your hands – form them into a claw-like cup and place the dough under your palms. Move the dough in a circular motion, all whilst pressing it firmly into the counter.
To make them slightly elongated for more filling real estate, bring your hands into a ‘v’ shape and gently roll two sides of the ball into a slight oval.
Place each dough onto the prepared baking sheets, leaving at least 5cm between each bun. Cover with a loose plastic bag (make sure the plastic doesn’t touch the buns) and proof for another 1½ hours. They should all be very puffy and soft, but not double in size.
Bake the buns
Turn the oven up to 180°C.
Using a pastry brush, paint the eggwash over the buns gently, right down to the edges.
Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, until golden brown and risen. When ready, place the baking sheets of buns on a wire rack to cool.
If you would like to coat the buns with a sheen, warm the honey until runny. Using a clean pastry brush, brush the warm buns with a thin coat.
Make the whipped cream
In a large mixing bowl, combine the cream, mascarpone, and sugar together. Using a hand mixer or a stand mixer with a whisk attachment, beat to soft peaks. You want to get a smooth, velvety consistency.
Assemble the buns
Using a serrated knife, slice the buns diagonally down the centre but not all the way through. The two halves should still be connected.
Open the buns wide enough to spoon the roasted greengages inside and cover it with mascarpone cream abundantly.
Smooth the edges with a palette knife and dust with icing sugar if desired. Pop one of the decorative fruit into the cream, like a brooch.
The maritozzi are best served on the day itself. Fill the buns only when serving. Pair with an espresso or if indulgent, some prosecco.